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Hi. I'm confused. if you can't see any difference when it's flashed according to your test, why di it? Isn't the point to build a tiny bit of "exposure" into the paper? Thanks.

Greetings from America. Great video. That is the sharpest pin hole shot I have ever seen, especially considering the large size that you printed it to. Just a thought, the smaller the "hole" the sharper the image even if it takes 20 minutes for the exposure. Although I've never done it, what about using one of those ReliOn ultra thin lancets that are used to check blood sugar. they're very thin. (0.32mm) That would translate to about f 200 for your camera. And if it couldn't pernitrate the soda can aluminum, it could certainly penetrate aluminum foil.

I hope by now your Baby Rolleiflex has gotten a CLA and become a "user." Just bought one for little & hope to find a repairer in the U.S.

Great video. Thanks. There is a much easier way of getting to the lens. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the camera and then slide the whole lens and bellow assembly up and then out from the top. This works for my 1916 version (enamel Autographic s/n ~500,000), and I believe for later versions.

nice

Thank you very much for this very informative video about Diafine developer. I have recently (in the past year) gotten into developing my film with Diafine and I really enjoy not having to worry about correct temperatures and times. A compensating developer is way nicer than the stuff I was using before ( Ilfotec DD-X, which actually never failed me as a developer, as long as I generally adhered to the correct times and temperatures). My first few roles developed with diafine exhibited bromide drag which was quite pronounced. I've since stuck to a new process of soaking in part A for 5 minutes (with very gentle swirling at every 1.5 minute interval). Then processing in part B for 5 minutes ( again with gentle swirling around every 1.5 minutes). I developed a roll of Ultrafine eXtreme 400 film (shot at box speed), and the results turned out very nicely indeed. I did not see any bromide drag this time around. I got plenty of density, and the highlights and shadows were well preserved. One thing I have doubts about is the warnings, (not just from your video but many others youtubers) that say, never to allow even a tiny bit of part A to get into part B. If that were to happen, then it will be ruined. And I very faithfully adhere to the practice of never allowing that to happen. When I'm done with both of the solutions, I pour them back into their bottles, and I have separate funnels for each solution so that there is never any kind of cross-pollution or cross-contamination going on. I do wonder, though, about how strictly it should be followed. I mean, through the course of normal developing of film, once part A is done, a lot of part A soaks into the emulsion, true, but some of part A is also on the reel, and the walls of the tank and some droplets may be in the light baffles. Once part B is poured in, then isn't that causing the cross-contamination that we're so warned not to allow from happening? It's just a question in my mind as someone with a science/engineering background. But for all intents and purposes, I've got a fail-safe method for this and I think I should just follow it to the tee. I want to thank you again for making this video. I have yet to develop a roll of Tri-X with diafine, and hopefully I should get very pleasant results. Best regards.

You are a true artist and a fine photographer 😘! Cheers from France

While process is great for soul.. beautiful work sir ❤️👏

🫡hats off to u ❤️

I have to agree, the comments on your submission are outstanding! Again, your creativity demonstrated here is stunning.

Thank you, Martin, this is by far the most comprehensive explanation of the process. I had been planning to try this too, and I’m so glad I watched this before I get started. Especially the use of a yellow filter and pre-flashing are things I wouldn’t have thought of. Well, using film dev didn’t come to my mind either 😅. I’m just wondering why pre-flashing can’t be a tad longer. All in all you’d get a fogged paper negative but film does have this too, even if we call it base+fog. I assume this would even help to get better highlights.

Well Martin, that is a find! have used the Speedgraphic quite a bit. And in the early 80s I had a Linhof Carden Master "L" system. 4 X 5. I often used Type 55 Poloride Pos Neg. Very handy. Prof plus Neg. I built an 8 X 10 Pinhole. f290. Exposure = many hours. Wonderful results. Scheimflug Principle to calculate the plane of focus. I used it a lot on product shoots. Cheers from Oz.

Outstanding Performance by a MASTER ❤

Brilliant! I did this once many years ago and don't remember much about how I did it. I'm inspired to try it again.

Dear Martin, nice vid and good man :) Nevertheless, I would lilke to remark you could have had it a little bit easier: 1. It does not matter really if the flashing is just so that it will not fog - because with both the copy process or scanning you can set the black point as you wish. Had you chosen one of the first probes which gave a light grey on the paper you would even have had the advantage that you would have lifted the future depths (in the positive) more out of the flat part of the gradation curve, thus improving shadow detail even much more. 2. Then, you could have continued your probes in the other direction instead, towards darker. Then you could have picked the one grey that resembles 18% grey. Then you could have put your exposure meter into the light of the enlarger and measured, then adjusted or calculated for the respective ISO. Then you'd have both in one step: better shadow detail plus approximate ISO (add filter factor arithmetically). And then there is one thing you can see in your paper negs: they don't have the "Lichthofschutzschicht" - what is that in English? - means, strong light, sky or reflections will spread within the paper emulsion and thus be enlarged and soft- contoured. With film, the backside is usually blackened to avoid this effect. This is quite a technical deficiency with paper neg, besides the low ISO. Can be used to make photos look 'historical', though. Regards from the mainland! :)

The beauty of Photoshop and Lightroom lies in the fact that anyone can use them in anyway that works for them. For myself, I do minimal work in both, and my images and print always come as I would like them. Yes, as you said, you can stack loads of layers up, and manipulate each one etc, but for me, and I would hazard a guess 90% of most users outside of design environment, simple adjustments are all that are needed. Nice video. Best wishes, David in the UK.

What a lot of had work Martin! By the way how do you set f11.7?

Great information, well explained. Thank you

Thank you for a wonderful video. It inspired me to get back into my hobby photography again.

you're a great photographer

A great demonstration of patience and skill. Lovely.!

Martin, I have a Mamiya 6, the same model, and I like to know how you attach it to a tripod. The tripod socket is all the way to the right and when I connect a normal plate, the camera feels unbalanced on a tripod. What's your solution?

Whats The Paper Called? U used? And how much they Cost

Very nice images. Surprisingly good for a relatively simple vintage camera.

This is a fascinating story. It's a photography lesson right out of the annals of history, art and science of pinhole photography. Excellent video!

They are a lot of fun - made one with a view camera I had using a polaroid back. There was a guy who made one out of an entire hotel room. He made a blackout curtain with a hole in it, then attached numbered sheets of print paper to the opposite wall. He then reversal processed the print paper to get the image.

Do you still suggest dropping the ISO over a battery adaptor? So 400 ISO to 320?

Now that IS impressive. Well done. It's been close on 60 years since I developed and printed my first film and I still think it's magic. Have you tried using cut sheets from a 120 roll film?

The end result is beautiful. Never used or made such camera. However I am familiar with the technique as I have poor eye sight and can make a makeshift solution using my fingers and form a small hole to see thru (or other objects) to read smaller text to some extent like the labels in shops on products. Call me crazy but it has saved me some trouble now and then. Cheers from Sweden.

What a beautiful and soft image lovely how I miss doing my own developing and printing late 60’s early 70’s still got all my film cameras maybe I should start again , thanks for this video so inspiring regards Fred

Hi Martin Watched until the end and was impressed with the results, the reciprocating Angel you were worried about the Sky, nice, different angle as well and under the tree, the moving leaves gives it an intriguing effect re subject, very good all around! I’ll look in my filters, although that is an unusual size, I’ve had that and used step up rings or even step down on my Phone attachment from 67mm to 58mm and lower depending on effect, but it’s cheaper than buying these magnetic 🧲 and you can get some really different old filters. I’ll let you know re filter! Regards DG

Hi Martin I have been in contact before, but at the Adonal stage i thought id ask, at the beginning you mentioned the yellow filter and allowing 1stop for that, but i didnt hear you make that adjustment in the cemetery, just for clarification, did you allow that or like happens with me sometimes, did old age kick in? Also what size filter is the one your missing on the Big G as i have many filters and it would be nice to see that tape gone, such a beautiful piece of kit. And as always, an excellent video with lots of little interesting exposures of information. Regards DG

I got one of these with a wooden front lens mount where the original owner wrote their name and address inside the back panel for a street in Peoria, Illinois. The house was still there a few years ago.

Thanks Martin. I'm just getting into pinhole photography so this is very helpful. A quick question. I'm using Arista VCRC pearl finish paper to create my 'paper negative'. With a 13 second exposure (on a bright mornings) my image came out way, way too dark, meaning a print from this would be blown out. Do I therefore need to increase my exposure time(s) for the photo paper, or decease them? As an aside, I'm also shooting with Harman Direct Positive photo paper, and the exposure time for this same image would likely be at least 20-30 seconds or more. I just don't know how the exposure times / light sensitivity compares between the two?

I have a Crown Graphic. It's the only large format camera that I have. Every few months I take it out to take some photos.

i maybe 3 years late, but thanks for sharing, i actually picked up a EF two months ago and are getting to know it (been 20 years since i last shot film).

Thoroughly enjoy what you do Martin, keep up the good work

I'm 76 and been shooting film since the 50's. I enjoyed your video. The cleaning information was invaluable. I too own this camera plus about 100 other antique/vintage models. I really wish someone would find a way to replicate the old film backing with Autographic ability. Thanks

Good job Martin! Virgil graham Tucson Az.

Had a 500, 500G predecessor great little camera, nice photos.

A beautiful, relaxing pastime. good job.

Hmm .. there are thousands of pin hole camera builders and shooters. Glad he has followers who are new to making them. Now .. maybe he could go the Lacock Abbey and show how Talbot made light sensitive materials to go into simple lens cameras.

You do realize that your pinhole camera has a zoom lens, don't you? Changing the distance of the pinhole to the film will change the size of the image... worth experimenting with, I'd say...

I really enjoy watching your videos. You are a breath of fresh air in photography. Visiting the forgotten realm of unique film photography is such a welcome choice. The bonus...you actually take great photos worthy of hanging on the wall. Most channels on the tube puch focus on product reviews or "how to" vidoes that have mediocre at best photographs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge of film photography with us who are passionate about it. You should check out Howard Powne. A nice gent out of Australia who has an immense collection of film cameras and goes in to depth on every one of the cameras he owns. Another gem of a film based channel I think you would appreciate.

Wow, best results I've ever seen! Good job!

I bought one of these that was represented and fully tested however the meter didnt work - got a discount so that worked out - but I really wanted one with working meter. Found one in UK and the meter did indeed work - hooray! - and I've run my first roll of film through it and will report results back. Question - you mention replacing the foam seal insides, where does one find that kind of material? Thanks for all your cool info!

It's OK, sports photography is boring anyway 😂

Love it Martin. Thank you.

Hallo Martin, Sehr inspirierend! Vielen Dank und Grüße aus Berlin 👍